Overseeding is a rejuvenating process that can breathe new life into your grass. Fall is the perfect time for overseeding, since the soil is still warm from the summer months, and there’s usually a bit more moisture in the air. Overseeding helps fill in bare spots, improves turf density, and enhances the overall aesthetic appeal of your lawn.

Here’s a step by step guide to overseeding your grass in the fall.

1.     Prepare your lawn. Start by measuring it – this is important for calculating how much seed and fertilizer you’ll need. Then mow your lawn shorter than usual for better seed-to-soil contact.

2.     Choose the right seed. Select a high-quality grass seed blend that suits the dry desert climate. Consider factors like sun exposure, soil type, and foot traffic of the area when making your choice.

3.     Seeding – Evenly distribute the seeds across the lawn, paying special attention to thin or bare areas, ensuring thorough coverage. Consider mixing seeds with a starter fertilizer to provide essential nutrients.

4.     Watering – It’s important to keep the soil consistently moist to support seed germination, so water lightly but frequently, ensuring the soil doesn’t dry out. A light watering in the morning is ideal.

5.     Maintenance – Germination can take several weeks. In this time, it’s best to avoid heavy foot traffic in the newly seeded areas. After that, resume mowing and watering as usual.

6.     Fertilization – once grass has reached 2-3 inches, apply a balanced fertilizer to encourage healthy growth.

When to Overseed:

Overseed established bermuda and other warm season lawns from mid-October through mid-November. Temperatures should be less than 65 F at night on a consistent basis or less than 78-83 F during the day. It is not recommended to overseed a bermuda lawn until it has been established for at least 3 months, allowing rhizomes to fully mature.

Winter Lawn Varieties

Perennial ryegrass is the primary grass for overseeding bermuda lawns. Perennial is preferred over annual ryegrass because it is heartier and the blades are darker green, finer, and easier to mow. Annual ryegrass is more likely to stain clothing and walkways.

1. You will want to rent a verticut and set it at the 1/2 to ¾ depth. Take out the thatch and dead material until you are left with approximately ½” of thatch. If you have any more than this it harbors insects, impedes water and fertilizer penetration. If you have a huge thatch buildup you have probably had some watering issues this summer and that directly impacted your drought tolerance.

2. Next you will lower your mowing height one setting and scalp down the leaf tissue. You are not trying to scalp the grass down to the dirt because this will result in a poor stand of grass for next year. You want to save some of the energy of the plant so it can come back strong in the spring. You will drop the height one more setting so you are just below your mowing height from a week ago and get a second scalp on the lawn to clean it up. This often results in the closing of the turf canopy and a second vertical cut is often necessary to open the grass plant back up. Once you have made the second vertical cut, mow up all the clippings and blow off any excess material from the grass. You lawn should have an open canopy so the seed can fall down into the thatch layer.

3. After the lawn has been cleaned up and the yard is clear, it is time to add your starter fertilizer.

4. Get your perennial rye seed and have your spreader calibrated to drop 8-10 pounds of seed per 1000 SF. You will start with the perimeter of the lawn and drop the seed at a ½ rate two directions. I advise having someone follow you while you seed with some paint and mark out where the seed has fallen so you don’t overlap or miss an area. After the edges are complete you will then switch to your rotary spreader and seed the middle of the yard at ½ rate two directions. Again the total rate is 8-10 pounds per 1000 SF so you will be putting out 4-5 pounds at a time. This ensures the grass comes up in corn rows and you have not missed any areas.

5. Turn on your water for 3-4 cycles per day for 5-7 minutes. You are just trying to keep the seed moist throughout the day and free from drying out. This will be the irrigation cycle for the first two weeks until the grass has grown up to an inch. At this point you can gradually reduce some of the daily cycles and get it down to one long cycle early in the morning.

6. At the 10-14 day mark apply your second fertilizer. You should use a balanced fertilizer that will help keep the grass growing and the root system developing.

7. You may be able to mow your grass before the second fertilizer application but if not, you will do it a couple days after it has worked itself into the soil. This is a longer cut and you are just giving the grass a haircut. Ideally this cut will be made to the grass in the afternoon when it has had a chance to dry down a little.

8. At the 3-4 week mark apply your third fertilizer application. You want to do this before we receive our first frost which is generally right around Thanksgiving. This will both get your grass growing and allow the ryegrass to start to tiller and get healthy. If you wait till after the frost you will often lose color in your ryegrass and get yourself stuck behind the 8 ball.

9. You should be mowing 1-2 times per week after the lawn is established and gradually taking it to your desired mowing heights.

10. Most of you will have your lawn up and established a couple weeks before we receive a frost so it is always a good idea to get another fertilizer application down right before this happens, usually in mid November. Use a product that will sustain a good root system and also keep color once the frost hits. On our farm we switch over to Soil Burst 4-4-2 to get the grass winter hardy and maintain good color.

*** It is very important to use the right amount of seed. There are several companies that advertise that you can get 20,000 SF out of a 50 pound bag of seed. If you read the directions on the back of the bag it clearly states this is for the northern states. These labels can sometimes be confusing so be careful.  Make sure you are buying a high quality perennial ryegrass seed with a minimum of 90 percent germination and zero weed seed.***

Video on how to scalp your lawn for overseeding.

Here is a video presentation with MORE info that can answer further questions.

For more information, visit: https://www.westcoastturf.com/

Just as a quality haircut can transform your look, a well-maintained lawn can elevate your home's appearance from average to magazine-worthy. But achieving that lush, green grass isn't just about tossing some seeds and hoping for the best. It requires careful attention to watering, mowing, and selecting the right type of grass.

Timing is Everything

First things first: when should you water and mow your lawn? According to Dani North, a lawn expert at West Coast Turf, the best time to water is early in the morning, between 5 a.m. and 8 a.m. This allows your grass to absorb the moisture before the heat of the day sets in. As for mowing, the ideal time is between 8 a.m. and 10 a.m. This window ensures the grass is dry enough for a clean cut, avoiding the risk of creating an unkempt appearance or damaging the blades.

If mornings aren't feasible, the second-best time to mow is between 4 p.m. and 6 p.m. Mowing during these times helps avoid the peak heat of midday, which can stress the grass and lead to burning.

Seasonal and Regional Considerations

Your lawn’s needs also depend on your location and the type of grass you choose. In cooler regions like Northern California to New Jersey, cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky Bluegrass thrive. These grasses should be kept between 2 to 3 inches for optimal health. Conversely, warmer areas from Southern Arizona to North Carolina are better suited to warm-season grasses like Bermuda and St. Augustine. Bermuda grass, for example, prefers to be kept between a quarter inch and three-quarters of an inch.

Choosing the Right Grass

Selecting the right type of grass for your region is crucial. For drought-tolerant options, Bermuda grass is a top choice in Southern California, where North resides. It's durable and requires less frequent mowing—about every two weeks. In contrast, cool-season grasses like tall fescue need more water but are still resilient.

To simplify your grass selection process, North suggests using TheRealCaliforniaLawn.com to find local growers who offer grass varieties suited to your area.

Avoiding Common Mistakes

Be sure to avoid mowing in the evening or at night, as open cuts in dark, damp conditions can leave grass vulnerable to disease. Also, avoid watering during the hottest part of the day, as this can lead to water loss through evaporation and stress the plants further.

By understanding the best times to water and mow and choosing the right type of grass for your region, you can achieve a lawn that not only looks great but thrives throughout the seasons. Happy mowing!

For more information visit https://www.westcoastturf.com/

In Arizona and Southern California's dry climate, using water efficiently is key to maintaining a healthy lawn. Here's a quick guide to help you choose and manage the right irrigation system for your yard.

Types of Irrigation Systems

1. Sprinkler Systems

- Fixed Sprinklers: Provide consistent coverage for small to medium lawns.

- Oscillating Sprinklers: Best for rectangular areas.

- Rotary Sprinklers: Effective for circular areas.

2. Drip Irrigation Systems

- Deliver water directly to plant roots through tubes and emitters, reducing evaporation and runoff. Great for garden beds and varied plant needs.

3. Soaker Hoses

- Release water slowly along their length, perfect for garden beds and smaller areas. Easy to install and maintain.

4. Smart Irrigation Systems

- Use weather data and soil sensors to adjust watering schedules automatically, ensuring optimal water use and conservation.

Choosing the Right System

- Lawn Size and Shape: Larger or irregular lawns may need a mix of sprinklers or a smart system, while smaller areas can use soaker hoses or drip systems.

- Plant Types: Match the system to your plants' water needs.

- Water Conservation: Drip and smart systems are best for conserving water.

Maintaining Your System

- Regular Checks: Inspect for leaks and clogs.

- Adjust Timers: Update watering schedules as needed.

- Clean Filters and Nozzles: Ensure proper water flow.

Watering Tips

- Water Early: Reduces evaporation.

- Avoid Overwatering: Check soil moisture before adding more water.

- Group Plants: Group plants with similar water needs for efficiency.

By choosing the right irrigation system and maintaining it well, you can keep your lawn healthy while conserving water. For expert advice and installation help, contact us today. Stay tuned for more tips on efficient lawn care!

Summer in Southern California is associated with great weather and beach days, but in the desert regions of Southern California and Arizona, summer means intense heat that can be tough on your lawn. As temperatures soar, preparing your lawn for the unforgiving sun is crucial to maintaining a lush, green yard. Here are some ways to help you keep your grass in good shape during the hottest months.

1. Adjust Your Watering Schedule

Watering is key to keeping your lawn healthy, but in the heat, it’s important to be strategic. Early morning is the best time to water your lawn, ideally before 8 a.m. This helps reduce evaporation and allows the grass to absorb moisture before the heat of the day. Aim to water deeply but less frequently—about once a week—to encourage deep root growth and drought resistance.

2. Mow Smartly

During extreme heat, raise your mower blades to leave your grass a bit longer. Longer grass shades the soil, reducing evaporation and keeping roots cooler. Avoid cutting more than one-third of the grass height at a time to prevent stressing the lawn. Also, make sure your mower blades are sharp to ensure clean cuts, which help the grass heal faster.

3. Fertilize Wisely

Fertilizing during extreme heat can stress your lawn further. Instead, focus on a balanced, slow-release fertilizer applied in late spring or early summer. This helps your lawn build up nutrients gradually without overwhelming it during peak temperatures.

4. Aerate Your Lawn

Aeration improves soil health by allowing air, water, and nutrients to penetrate deeper into the ground. This is especially beneficial during hot weather when lawns may become compacted. Aerate your lawn in early summer to give your grass a better chance of thriving throughout the season.

5. Use Mulch and Shade

Apply a layer of mulch around garden beds and lawn edges to help retain soil moisture and regulate temperature. Additionally, consider adding shade structures like pergolas or shade cloths over particularly vulnerable areas of your lawn to reduce direct sun exposure.

6. Monitor for Stress Signs

Keep an eye out for signs of heat stress, such as a bluish-gray tint or footprints that remain visible on the grass. If you notice these symptoms, increase watering slightly but avoid overwatering, which can lead to other issues like fungal growth.

7. Address Lawn Pests and Diseases

Heat can weaken your lawn, making it more susceptible to pests and diseases. Regularly check for signs of trouble and treat any problems promptly with appropriate, environmentally friendly solutions.

By following these best practices, you can help your lawn withstand the extreme heat and remain healthy and vibrant all summer long. A little extra care goes a long way in ensuring your outdoor space stays beautiful and enjoyable, even in the hottest weather.

For more tips on maintaining a stunning lawn in Southern California's challenging climate, stay tuned to our blog or contact us for personalized advice and solutions. For more information visit: https://westcoastturf.com

One guest you didn’t invite (and don’t want) at your outdoor events: mosquitoes. Not only a nuisance for outdoor activities, they also pose health risks due to their ability to transmit diseases. Controlling them is possible, if you follow these steps.

Eliminate stagnant water. This is a prime breeding ground for mosquitoes and gnats. Regularly remove containers or debris that may collect water, and ensure gutters are free of obstructions. It's essential to note that mosquito larvae can mature in as little as 8–10 days, highlighting the urgency of removing all potential breeding sites. 

Maintain a well-groomed lawn to discourage mosquito habitats. Overgrown grass, bushes, and trees create favorable living conditions for mosquitoes. Regular lawn maintenance reduces these ideal breeding grounds. Minimize shady, damp areas, and mow tall grass according to the recommended height for your grass type.

Apply insecticide to the lawn and bushes on a monthly basis, adjusting frequency based any rainfall. This shouldn’t be an issue in arid climates like Southern California and Arizona, where summer rainfall is minimal. 

Adjusting lighting can also deter mosquitoes and other nighttime insects, as these pests are often drawn to lights. Consider utilizing insect-repelling lighting to address this concern. Incorporating plants with strong aromas, such as mint and rosemary, into the landscape can help repel mosquitoes. Other insect-repelling plants include lavender, marigold, citronella grass, catmint, basil, sage, lemon balm, lemon thyme, garlic, and catnip.

Use these tips to keep your outdoor parties mosquito free! For more information, visit westcoastturf.com